Rockies and VIA Rail

Extraordinary beauty: Icefields Parkway, Jasper and Maligne Lake 

I've had the pleasure of travelling along Alberta's Icefields Parkway multiple times, and it's truly a road trip that keeps offering new discoveries. The short hike to Peyto Lake along an easy yet ice-covered trail was undoubtedly rewarding, with panoramic views that in mid-to-late May I often had entirely to myself. The highway itself was pleasantly quiet, occasionally punctuated by sightings of black bears peacefully emerging from the forest – a gentle reminder of the rich wildlife inhabiting this stunning landscape. 

My journey led me to Jasper, an enchanting alpine village deeply affected by the 2024 wildfires. Despite initial apprehensions, I was relieved and delighted to find the majority of Jasper exactly as I remembered, particularly the inviting local brewpub serving its own craft beers and delicious Alberta cuisine. 

Though I enjoy self-driving, I highly recommend joining guided tours to enhance the travel experience. The Sundog Lake Maligne tour and guided hike exceeded my expectations. Our guide addressed the 2024 wildfires sensitively, providing informative insights into their environmental impact. Passing Medicine Lake, we observed areas recovering from fires a decade prior, where new growth symbolized nature's resilience. Our final stop, the pristine Maligne Lake, included a serene woodland walk, revealing lesser-known viewpoints and ample opportunities to absorb the area's extraordinary beauty at a leisurely pace. 

VIA Rail: An immersive experience across stunning landscapes 

Returning my rental car in Jasper, I transitioned from road to rail. Embarking on a transcontinental rail journey across Canada always evokes a romantic connection to the pioneering spirit that shaped this nation. While powerful diesel locomotives have replaced steam engines, many rail cars dating back to the 1950s have been beautifully refurbished, offering comfort and a delightful sense of nostalgia. Canadian trains are noticeably more spacious than their European counterparts, featuring sleeper cars alongside panoramic dome cars and elegant dining facilities. 

Initially, I had concerns about crossing the expansive Canadian prairies by train – would boredom set in, or cabin fever take hold? Fortunately, my journey quickly put these worries to rest. As the prairies glided gently by, the engaging crew served regionally inspired, delicious meals with menus changing daily. My sleeper car, though compact, comfortably accommodated my 6'3" frame, ensuring restful sleep. With no Wi-Fi onboard, I welcomed the rare chance to disconnect completely and appreciate Canada's vast landscapes fully. This isn't merely a rail journey; it’s an immersive experience – a true "cruise on wheels". I eagerly anticipate travelling with VIA Rail again. 

Exploring Toronto: A palpable buzz fills this iconic Canadian city 

My adventure culminated in Toronto, Canada's largest city, home to around 3 million residents, with over 5 million in the Greater Toronto Area. Toronto's bustling downtown sprawls along Lake Ontario, where towering skyscrapers, including the iconic CN Tower, punctuate the skyline. Despite its vast urban expanse, Toronto’s downtown core remains surprisingly walkable, with the Financial District, Entertainment District, and Harbourfront within easy reach of one another. 

The Blue Jays, Toronto’s celebrated baseball team, were at home during my visit, and a steady stream of blue-shirted fans trickled from the crowded bars and cafés nearby eager for the auspicious first pitch, past hot dog stands with the smell of onions and mustard transferring you back to every childhood fairground you have ever visited. The buzz was palpable and moved Toronto up a notch or two on my list of favourite North American cities.