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San Gerardo de Dota

San Gerardo de Dota is a world away from the beaches, a cool, green valley folded deep into the Talamanca Mountains at well over two thousand metres. The road drops steeply off the Inter American Highway near Cerro de la Muerte, twisting down through ancient oak forest draped in moss and bromeliads until the Savegre River appears below, clear and cold. Mornings are crisp and misty. Evenings call for a log fire, a warm blanket and a plate of fresh rainbow trout from the river, perhaps followed by a slice of apple pie made with fruit from the valley's own orchards.

San Gerardo de Dota

San Gerardo de Dota - Quetzal

San Gerardo de Dota

San Gerardo de Dota

San Gerardo de Dota

San Gerardo de Dota

San Gerardo de Dota

This is cloud forest at its most magical, and the reason most people come is the resplendent quetzal. With its emerald plumage and trailing tail feathers, it is one of the most beautiful birds in the Americas, and here the chances of seeing one are unusually good, especially early in the day when they gather to feed on wild avocado trees. Beyond the quetzals, hummingbirds flicker around lodge feeders, trails lead through the forest to a tumbling waterfall and the neighbouring Los Quetzales National Park protects high mountain wilderness of oak, fern and páramo. It is a place of birdsong, woodsmoke and quiet, where the mist rolls in each afternoon and the valley seems to hold its breath.

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