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Puerto Viejo

Reggae drifts from beach bars, bicycles outnumber cars and the scent of coconut hangs in the warm air. Puerto Viejo, on Costa Rica's southern Caribbean coast, feels like a different country from the rest of the nation, shaped by the Jamaican families who settled here generations ago and by the Bribri people whose lands lie in the hills behind. Brightly painted wooden buildings line the main street, and the food is pure Caribbean: rice and beans simmered in coconut milk, spicy rondón stew, patí pastries and fresh fish grilled over coals. Offshore, the reef break known as Salsa Brava draws experienced surfers when the swell rolls in.

Puerto Viejo

Puerto Viejo

South of town, a quiet coastal road runs past a string of beaches, each lovelier than the last. Playa Cocles has golden sand and steady waves, Playa Chiquita hides small coves among the palms, and Punta Uva offers calm, turquoise water sheltered by a jungle headland. The road ends at Manzanillo, gateway to the Gandoca Manzanillo Wildlife Refuge, where rainforest trails lead to lonely beaches and sloths doze in the canopy. North of town, Cahuita National Park protects a coral reef teeming with colourful fish, while the Bribri villages inland offer a chance to see cacao turned into chocolate the traditional way. Days drift by barefoot and unhurried, much as the locals intend.

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