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Drake Bay

Drake Bay feels like the end of the road, mostly because there is barely a road at all. Tucked into the northern edge of the Osa Peninsula, on Costa Rica's wild southern Pacific coast, it is reached by small plane or by boat from the town of Sierpe, a journey that snakes through mangrove channels before bursting out through the river mouth into open ocean. The bay itself is a sweep of dark sand and rocky coves backed by thick forest, where lodges sit half hidden among the trees and scarlet macaws squawk overhead. Sir Francis Drake is said to have anchored here in 1579. Little about the place suggests it has hurried since.

Drake Bay

Drake Bay

Drake Bay

Drake Bay

Drake Bay

Drake Bay

This is the gateway to Corcovado National Park, one of the most biodiverse corners of the planet, where tapirs wander the trails, all four of the country's monkey species share the canopy and the occasional jaguar leaves its prints in the mud. Guided hikes set off from the San Pedrillo and Sirena ranger stations into forest so dense and loud it feels almost primeval. Offshore, Caño Island rises from clear water teeming with turtles, rays and reef sharks, a superb spot for snorkelling and diving, while humpback whales pass along the coast for much of the year. By evening the generator hum fades, the stars come out in their thousands and the rainforest takes over the night shift.

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