Salta

Tucked into the northwest of Argentina, bordering Chile, Bolivia and Paraguay, Salta is a province of extraordinary contrasts, from the stark, high altitude desert of the Puna to the lush, sub-tropical greens of the Yungas jungle. Its capital, often simply called Salta, is one of the country's best preserved colonial cities, where balmy evenings can be spent in a courtyard listening to Andean cueca music over a plate of locro or tamales, washed down with a glass of Torrontés, the fragrant white wine that thrives in the region's high altitude vineyards around Cafayate. Beyond the city, the landscape only grows more dramatic, snow capped Andean peaks give way to the otherworldly white expanse of the Salinas Grandes salt flats, one of the most striking natural sights in South America, while the surrounding valleys and gorges reveal a palette of ochre, red and green rock formations found almost nowhere else on earth.

Salta sits high in Argentina's northwest, a handsome colonial city of whitewashed churches and shaded plazas that feels a world away from the tango bravado of Buenos Aires. From here the landscape does the talking. Head out to the Salinas Grandes, a blinding white salt flat stretching to the horizon, cracked into a honeycomb pattern that plays havoc with any sense of scale (and produces the sort of forced perspective photos everyone secretly wants). The drive up is an event in itself, switchbacks climbing past cactus strewn hillsides to well over 4,000 metres, so take the altitude seriously and allow a day or two to acclimatise in Salta first. South of the city lies Cafayate, Argentina's high altitude wine country, where malbec and the more unusual torrontés grape thrive at nearly 1,700 metres, giving the wines a distinctive freshness. The journey there through the Quebrada de las Conchas is reason enough to go, red rock canyons carved into shapes with names like the Devil's Throat and the Amphitheatre, glowing deep ochre as the light shifts through the afternoon. Together, Salta, the salt flats and Cafayate make for one of South America's most rewarding overland routes, dramatic scenery, characterful towns and a glass of something decent at the end of it.

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