San José

San José sits in Costa Rica's Central Valley at over a thousand metres, a busy, unpretentious capital ringed by volcanoes and blessed with a climate of near permanent spring. Its streets have a lived-in energy: buses rumble past pastel facades, street vendors sell mango with lime and salt, and the smell of freshly roasted coffee drifts from corner cafés. Coffee built this city. The Teatro Nacional, all gilded ceilings and marble staircases, was paid for by a tax on the bean in the 1890s, and it remains the most elegant room in the country.

Below the Plaza de la Cultura, the Museo del Oro Precolombino holds thousands of gold frogs, eagles and shamanic figures crafted long before the Spanish arrived. A short walk away, the Mercado Central is a warren of narrow aisles stacked with spices, leather goods and medicinal herbs, where tiny counters serve casado and gallo pinto to office workers at lunch. In Barrio Amón, old coffee barons' mansions now house galleries and boutique guesthouses, while Barrio Escalante has become the place for craft beer and inventive local cooking. And on a clear morning, the green slopes of Irazú and Poás rise above the rooftops, a reminder that wild Costa Rica is never far away.

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