Laguna Lodge

Laguna Lodge sits on a slender ribbon of land in Tortuguero, the Caribbean surf rolling in on one side and the still, dark waters of the lagoon on the other. There are no roads here. You arrive by boat, gliding along jungle canals where herons stalk the shallows and howler monkeys call from the canopy. The lodge itself is spread across 15 acres of tropical gardens, its wooden rooms tucked among palms and flowering plants, each with a bench outside for watching the wildlife drift by. A Gaudí inspired building of colourful mosaics greets you at reception, a playful touch in the middle of the rainforest.

Meals are served in an open restaurant overlooking the lagoon, and there are two bars, one perched over the water and one beside a pool complete with its own small island and waterfall. A butterfly garden and private trails wind through the grounds. Beyond them lies Tortuguero National Park, a maze of waterways best explored by boat in the early morning, when sloths, caimans, toucans and spider monkeys are at their most active. From July into September, green turtles haul themselves ashore on the nearby beach to nest after dark, one of the Caribbean's great wildlife spectacles.

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