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San Pedro de Atacama

San Pedro de Atacama sits low and unassuming beneath a wall of volcanoes, its dusty adobe streets a modest counterpoint to the vast, otherworldly terrain that surrounds it. This is a town built for arrival and departure rather than lingering, a base camp for exploring the driest desert on Earth. From here, the road climbs to over 4,000 metres, past the Domeyko Mountain Range and the mineral-streaked folds of the Cordillera de la Sal, where Moon Valley's dunes and salt-crusted ridges could pass for another planet entirely. At dusk, Death Valley's rust red rock catches the last light in shifting bands of colour, the Andes darkening behind it.

The high Altiplano stretches further still, to the Miscanti and Miñiques Lagoons, twin pools of impossible blue ringed by volcanoes and flamingos, and to Toconao, where San Lucas Church stands in pale volcanic stone. At dawn, El Tatio's geysers send columns of steam into freezing air, vicuñas grazing nearby as the sun edges over the peaks. Return each evening, and San Pedro offers a quiet reset: adobe walls still holding the day's heat, a sky about to fill with more stars than most travellers have ever seen.

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