Juma Ópera

On the far side of Largo de São Sebastião, a row of restored historic mansions faces the pink façade and tiled dome of the Teatro Amazonas. This is Juma Ópera, a boutique hotel in the heart of old Manaus, where the wealth of the rubber boom once built an opera house in the middle of the rainforest. There are 41 rooms and suites, each decorated individually and soundproofed against the life of the square. Most look straight out at the opera house, its dome glowing green, blue and gold in the evening light.

The restaurant is led by chef Sofia Bendelak, who brings Amazonian flavours to contemporary dishes: river fish, tucupi, jambu and the fruits of the forest. Up on the roof, the pool looks out over the old town’s terracotta rooftops towards the Rio Negro. The spa uses forest ingredients and river water in treatments inspired by a journey through the Amazon. Step outside and you are on the square’s wavy black and white mosaic, which echoes the Meeting of the Waters. Evening concerts at the theatre are only a few paces away, and in Manaus the jungle is never far beyond the opera.

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