Juma Amazon Lodge

Raised on stilts among the treetops, Juma Lodge sits beside the dark, slow waters of the Juma River, about 100 kilometres south of Manaus. The journey takes around three hours by road and river and passes the Meeting of the Waters, where the black Rio Negro and the sandy Solimões flow side by side without mixing. There are just twenty thatched bungalows, joined by wooden walkways and spaced well apart for privacy. Some look out across the river, others into the forest canopy, and all have private bathrooms with hot showers. Each season the river rises and falls by several metres. At high water, the surrounding flooded forest becomes a maze of channels that canoes can glide through, at the level of the branches.

Days follow the rhythm of the river. You might take a canoe out at sunrise as the mist lifts off the water, try piranha fishing in the afternoon, or go out after dark with a torch to spot the glinting eyes of caimans along the bank. Small group excursions with local guides also visit riverside caboclo families and lead to towering samaúma trees, centuries old. Back at the lodge, the restaurant serves fresh river fish, regional dishes and Amazonian fruits, and a deck over the water is a peaceful spot as evening falls. The lodge runs on solar power and has no internet, so the only sounds are the frogs, insects and howler monkeys of the forest at night.

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