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Manantial del Silencio Hotel

Poplars line the riverbank at El Manantial del Silencio, and beyond them the Cerro de los Siete Colores rises in bands of ochre, rust and violet, a mountain that seems to change colour with the hour. The hotel sits at the edge of Purmamarca, in the Quebrada de Humahuaca, a valley carved by ancient rivers and listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Built in Spanish neocolonial style, with adobe walls and hollow cane roofs, it wears its architecture lightly, whitewashed and understated, its rooms and suites bright with garden or mountain views, some with four poster beds and jacuzzi baths.

A hectare and a half of garden surrounds the property, poplars and algarroba trees offering quiet corners for reading in the shade. Days here move at the pace of the valley itself: a soak in the spa's hydromassage tub, a Scottish shower, a massage looking out towards those seven colours. Dinner brings Andean flavours with a contemporary hand at Calandria, the estate's restaurant, before the pool and its loungers catch the last of the evening light. Just beyond the gates, Purmamarca's handicraft market and colonial church wait in the shadow of the hill that gives the town its name.

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