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Vinas de Cafayate Wine Resort

On a low hill above Cafayate, where the Calchaquí valley opens out beneath the San Isidro peaks, a resort built like a private estate waits at the end of a quiet drive. Rooms line the sides of a central square, each with a private balcony looking out over vineyards, mountains, or the valley beyond. The building was once a family home, and something of that intimacy remains, covered walkways, a fireplace lounge stacked with books, a courtyard where the light shifts slowly through the day.

Afternoons might mean a cruiser bicycle borrowed from reception, free for the first two hours, pedalled slowly along tracks between the vines and hills. Or a mate basket carried out to a bench overlooking the vineyard, thermos and yerba and homemade bread laid out for the ritual of pouring, sipping, and pouring again. As the sun drops, the cellar opens for tastings of the valley's high altitude wines, poured among fellow travellers swapping stories long after the glasses are empty.

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